Set to task, dedicated to choosing our very most favoritest wines, we set a very strict set of criteria…we want outrageous quality for the cash, of course, but we also require craft winemaking, juice that speaks of where it comes from and that inexplicable, intangible, expression of something extraordinary.Our staff picks of the year are titillating, intellectual stimulating, and definitely remarkable…unforgettable, even. So, we are memorializing our favorites of the year in this year end rewind.

So, without further ado, the LUSH Wines of the Year, 2011. Ha. No, silly, you have to come to the tasting to get a sneak peek and a secret sip…

Sundays with LUSH: Staff Picks

12.18.11

Veterans

Jess T. -
NV Domaine Berthet-Bondet Cremant du Jura, Jura, France – Chardonnay and Savagnin
The Jura. Nestled alongside the Swiss border, this is the sort of picturesque terrain that beckons travelers with views of both the wooded Jura Mountains and the snow-capped French Alps. Archeologists have found vines that date back over 5,000 years; making this some the oldest wine country in France. However, this little nook of grape goodness only accounts for about 1% of the total French wine production. On parallel with Burgundy, the similar suspects Pinot Noir and Chardonnay make their presence known, though more obscure varietals, like Trousseau, Poulsard, and Savagnin do not go unrepresented.

It is in the Jura that the eminent vin jaune and vin de paille are produced. Chateau-Chalon is a legendary exponent vin jaune, a unique style in which fermented juice is left to age in sealed wooden barrels for six years. During this time a flor develops, think similar to fino sherry, but unfortified. This quirky number is meant to age, and generally has appropriately dynamic price tag. For vin de paille, grapes are left to dry either hung from rafters in heated buildings, or by using wire mesh/wicker trays. Clusters will eventually shrivel up into highly concentrated, near raisins, which are pressed to produce sweet wine of amber color and extreme longevity.

Neither Jean Berthet-Bondet nor his wife Chantal had an explicit family background in the winemaking industry. The domain was purchased in 1984, after 50 years of non-existent wine production, and brought it back to life. It encompasses 10 hectares that span both the Chateau-Chalon and Cotes-de-Jura appellations. Production includes still whites and reds in classic or “sous voile” styles (not topped up, so wine evaporates and a layer of yeast sets of the surface), vin de paille, Grand Cru de vin jaune, eau de vie, Macvin du Jura liqueur; quite the varied range of products to select from.

I adore their Cremant du Jura, a fabulous sparkler blended from Savignin and Chardonnay grapes. Creamy, yet mineral; honeyed nuts, orchard fruits, quince, and orange blossom all seam to float in these tiny, refined bubbles. Underrated, underpriced, and unpretentious, this is exactly the style of bubbly I would drink all day, everyday.

Kim –
Elena Walch Gewurztraminer, Alto Adige, Italy
So. Gewurztraminer. I love it. I have a sweet tooth. Like many young ladies, it was one of the first wines I drank before venturing beyond the land of residual sugar. But that’s what’s so great about this grape. If you need it to be, it can be baby steps into dry mineral and complex wines. I cut my teeth on German Gewurz. But oh man. Italy. They do things to this grape you never thought possible. And I went through so much of my wine loving years not knowing how freaking fantastic their version of this grape is. This wine was enough to make me immediately dabble into the history of where this swoon-worthy version comes from: northern province (Alto Adige) in Italy. Ahem…

Alto Adige has changed hands from the Romans to the Austro-Hungarian Empire and back to the Italians, and it has collected a potpourri of tradition and technique in its viticulture. In fact, German is still spoken and is used for many of the wine names; and for this population, Alto Adige is known as Südtirol.  Here in the mountain slopes and hillsides the indigenous Lagrein thrives and the noble Pinot Noir is at its best on Italian soil. The site is also fabled to be the origin of Traminer grape. It is so mountainous in these parts that only 15% of the land can be cultivated – and this miniscule number represents less than 1% of the wine produced in all of Italy. However, quantity is not the focus in these ancient vineyards – the region boasts the highest proportion of DOC wines in Italy. Much of the exported wine goes to Austria to cater to their need for quality red wine and the little that does make it to the States is scooped up quickly.

But enough about that. How does this damn fine wine taste?  Aromatics are out of control. Quite like standing under a shower of white blossoms, with fresh white peaches, freshly juiced ginger and yuzu fruit, with a single lychee fruit just cracked.  The palate is alive, literally, with bright, prickling acidity, but a lovely play at sweetness that is balanced by very tart and acidic fruits and a bit of jasmine and honeysuckle.

I don’t know much Italian, but I know Mi piace molto! And dammit. Mi piace molto questo vino (I really like this wine!)

Rachel -
Forlorn Hope ‘Sihaya’, California – Ribolla Gialla
Mister Matthew Rorick. The dashing, daring, anthropologist turned enologist, is all about pushing boundaries, playing with the vines, and loving wine.  After taking a departure as the full-time winemaker at Elizabeth Spencer, Rorick has dived straight in to solely producing his own wine. His ‘rare creatures’. Those with just the thinnest slice of hope to succeed. But, ‘success’ has many definitions, and I am all about the taste, the experience, and loving it. And, oh honey, I love this wine.  I am obsessed with the quirky, weird, and on the fringe.

Sihaya is all about a balance of form.  This wine is round in all the right places, lean in others, textured and layered, and delicious.  With extended skin contact and wild fermentation, not to mention bio-dynamic farming, this wine is a peek into the direction winemaking in the U.S. is taking in near future. Get on board.

This wine just floored me upon first sniff.  The aromatics are wildly aggressive, with yellow pear, sweet cream, and lavender blossoms. A dusting of cardamom. The palate is just waves and waves of layered flavors, with lemon curd and caramel, cinnamon, baked pear and juicy pear, stones and salt, coriander.  The texture is beautiful, and tangibly viscous.  Afforded the  7 days of skin contact during fermentation, the tasty morsels in suspension, and the lively acid, this wine suggests that it will absolutely continue to evolve for years.  $26.50

Rachael –
Domaine St. Nicolas  ’Gammes en May’, Fiefs Vendeen, Loire, France – Gamay
This was my perfect wine of the summer. Light and beautifully bright with an enticing minerality and exciting little whiffs of salt-air, this was the red I wanted to sip on the days of 90 degree temperatures and bbqs. We’re in the cold grip of winter now, but this wine still reminds me of warmer times.

Biodynamic, 100% gamay from vineyards not so much kissed as bullied by coastal winds. The effect of these winds keeps the vines low to the ground (as in so low harvesters have to crawl to pick the grapes) and makes them have to fight to produce. A little adversity tends to be just what vines need to produce the most delicious and intensely flavorful grapes. Thierry Michon of Domaine St. Nicolas is so committed to Biodynamic production, that over time he has purchased ‘buffer’ land around his property. These land parcels help prevent chemicals from other winemaker’s fields from drifting onto his vines. Biodynamic practices help bring out the truest expression of terroir in the wine. No interference, just the vines, the soil, that salt-laden ocean air, the climate, all coming through in your glass. $19

Carrie  -
2009 Littorai, Sonoma, California – Pinot Noir
My love affair with Littorai began about 2 years ago when I tried 2008 Littorai Vin Gris, a vintage that was marked by a devastating wildfire in California. The result?  A beautiful rose. So unique, so incredible, demonstrating just how influential grapes truly are to their terroir. This was an awakening moment for me. And since then each bottle of Littorai wine I try produces the same result. An awakening moment where I get it. I get the wine.

So Ted Lemon has been called the Michael Jordan of the wine world by the self proclaimed Prince of Pinot, William “Rusty” Gaffney, M.D.  I kinda have to agree with this statement, although, perhaps he is a bit less known. After he graduated Brown University, Ted (yes, we are on a first name basis) received a fellowship to study winemaking at the Universite de Bourgogne. In France. He apprenticed at some rather impressive estates. And in 1982, when Guy Roulot, winemaker and patriarch of the Domaine Roulot, passed away, Roulot’s widow asked friend and famed winemaker Jacques Seysses for a suggestion on a replacement winemaker. His response… Ted Lemmon.  A 25 year old American. And that is how Ted Lemmon became the first American person to run a Domain in Burgundy.  Dude. Ted Lemon rules. Seriously.
Fast forward a number of years. Ted, now back in California with his wife Heidi, felt that there had to be an untapped region in California that could create the style of wines they had in mind: terroir driven age worthy Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays.  After searching sites that led them all the way to the Mexican border and up to Northern California, they settled in the coastal regions of Sonoma, Mendocino and Anderson Valley. At the time these were not Pinot Noir making regions. Now, without question they are.
Backed by the belief that great wine is made in the vineyard, Ted farms organically and biodynamically. The “Les Lamers” is actually a blend of multiple lots from Lemon’s Anderson Valley parcels. These are the grapes that didn’t make the cut to the really expensive wines. And I couldn’t be happier!! Composed of declassified fruit from Cerise and Savoy vineyards and intended for earlier drinking, the 2010 Les Larmes Pinot Noir is to me how Pinot Noir should behave. Dirty yet classy. At the same time.
Kelly –
Valle dell’Acate, Vittoria, Sicily, Italy – Frappato
I seriously heart this wine, and if anyone took a look at my purchases last year (please don’t!) there’s a very good chance I drank at least a case of this wine, and enjoyed every drop of it!  Soft and juicy, this is a perfect wine to drink in the afternoon, with dinner, or at 1am on a Thursday night while pretending to be a rock star* (don’t ask).  Either way, you get the point, it’s so delicious any time of day.  Bright and fresh, with a lingering finish, this is also a great wine to pair with a number of foods.  Pasta with a little spicy sauce?  Done.  Roasted chicken?  You bet.  Going to a byob?  This is your wine.  Try it, you’ll probably love it just as much as I do.  $19.50
Erin –
2010 Altos las Hormigas ‘Las Liebres’, Mendoza, Argentina – Bonarda
2011 was a tumultuous year–one that I will always remember for its worldwide protests, economic crises, “austerity measures,” and also a personal commitment to try and save money, perhaps under a mattress where one of the evil banks couldn’t get it. For this reason, I have selected this delightful, $10 red as my choice of the year. It can’t always be baller bubbles or swanky Savennieres. A girl needs some wine with her meal, and on a Tuesday night, it’s not going to be a $40 bottle. I’m certain that many of you will agree.

One of the things we Lushies do very well is weed out all the crappy stuff at this price point, and bring in only the wines that are interesting, have character, and represent a fantastic value for the price. This bonarda is one of them. A fairly obscure Italian grape (hey, I am still a wine nerd, even at the $10 level!) that made its way to Argentina, this wine is the brainchild of some really fancy Italian winemakers: Marc de Grazia, superstar winemaking consultant Attilio Pagli, Le Terrazze’s owner Antonio Terni, Alberto Antonini of Antinori, and Antonio Moreschalchi. They have mostly focused on producing high end, single vineyard malbec, but this little gem reflects a certain quirkiness, and a tendency to want to introduce something a little different to their customers.

Buoyant red fruits and a hint of herbaceous characteristics prevail, and, unlike many “cheap wines,” the palate has a definitive beginning, middle, and finish. The body is medium weight, with fairly high acid, thus making it an ideal food wine (pizza or Mexican have both worked nicely for me), but the fruit is just juicy enough to appeal to the drinker who just wants a glass or four, no food necessary, thank you. And last but not least, the label is awesome. “Las liebres” means “the hares,” and ever the animal lover, I couldn’t resist. Cheers. $10

Dan –
Kiuchi Brewery Hitachino Nest Beer “XH”, Japan – Sake-Cask Aged Beer
The barrel-aged madness is not only continuing into 2012, but there’s a good chance that it’s hitting the mainstream full force. While the beer nerds might pout and claim that Bourbon County Stout has sold out and that Darkness was too hard to get, there’s others who know some secrets. Specifically, that Hitachino has been brewing their own barrel-aged beauty for almost a decade now. Aged in distilled sake (shochu) casks for three months, the beer has a similar malt profile to their classic Nest beer. But three months of mingling with the fruity rice sugars in the Shochu barrels and a bit of chocolate malt put this squarely into the Belgian strong ale category. A floral and woody nose leads to a rich, beautiful body of concord grapes and dark chocolate. Everything gets wrapped up in a mix of oak and hops that keeps the tongue fresh and ready for another sip. Delightfully, dangerously easy to drink for an 8% beer!

Brent -
Founder’s Porter, Michigan
In today’s craft beer culture there’s such a push to do the experimental, barrel-aged, lactobacillus, brettanomyces, 1000+ I.B.U., or ultra high alcohol beers that it seems that the well crafted, balanced, and easily drinkable beers fall by the wayside. That’s not to say that Three Floyds Dark Lord, Goose Island Bourbon County Stout, Russian River Consecration, Dogfish Head 120 Minute IPA and other large and/or difficult to get beers aren’t excellent, but there is much to be said for a balanced, flavorful, and sessionable beer. Founder’s Porter is an excellent example of exactly that. It’s a moderate 6.5% American Porter that skirts the line between roasty, hoppy, chocolate, and malt so well that it’s a joy to consume with all senses. In a time when Ghost Chilis are making their way into beverages, and people are enjoying things that would have previously been considered infected, it’s nice sometimes to take a step back to the subtly complex tastes of an expertly crafted, well balanced, and absolutely excellent beer. This beer wasn’t chosen to be counter culture, but to showcase a beer that may get overlooked for the rare and extreme. It also has the bonus of never being in short supply!

Set to task, dedicated to choosing our very most favoritest wines, we set a very strict set of criteria…we want outrageous quality for the cash, of course, but we also require craft winemaking, juice that speaks of where it comes from and that inexplicable, intangible, expression of something extraordinary.Our staff picks of the year are titillating, intellectual stimulating, and definitely remarkable…unforgettable, even. So, we are memorializing our favorites of the year in this year end rewind.

So, without further ado, the LUSH Wines of the Year, 2011. Ha. No, silly, you have to come to the tasting to get a sneak peek and a secret sip…

Sundays with LUSH: Staff Picks

12.11.11

Newbies

Lauren -
2010 Umathum Traminer, Burgenland, Austria – Traminer Rouge/Traminer
Umumumumumummmmm. I heart this wine because it smells sweet like flowers but has really nice acidity. I could smell it for days! It would be delish with the Zingerman’s Lincoln log, Pantaleo, or Capriole Juliana. Yum cheese! Yum snax! Yum Traminer!   $30.00

Jess H. -
2004 Rolly Gassmann, Alsace, France – Gewurztraminer
Hooray! Gewurztraminer! I love you. (and, apparently, so does Kim…).
Oh, velvety sweetness in a bottle.  You are a thick, super rich, almost over-the-top wine with a perfumed nose of lychee and spice. And, I appreciate you for you…including your insane amount of residual sugar. Rolly-Gassmann is a Domaine like none other and their unique style of winemaking immediately draws me in. Why? Unique how? Well, I think its a kind of shameless uniqueness. I like wine that makes no apologies for itself. Beautiful sweet fruit. Rose petal perfume with touches of orange blossom. Wonderfully luscious, marmalade-y sweetness. All sound a bit seductive? It should. A little too rich and hedonistic? Without a doubt. This wine is complicated, though not entirely complex. It is focused, but soft around the edges (like yours truly…wink wink). Rolly-Gassmann produces wines that are considered to be “small masterpieces” with very good definition. And, I couldn’t agree more. So, let’s drink this delightful little work-of-art and remember like Mae West said “too much of a good thing is wonderful”!!!!   $57.00

Alicia -
AmByth Estate, Paso Robles, California – Tempranillo/Sangiovese
As anyone who works in the wine industry can appreciate, I am often asked about my favorite wine. Oh, impossible question! Okay, I’ll wax poetic over the wonder that can be a bottle of Mosel Riesling, or the inherent sexiness of that Loire Chenin Blanc. These are wines I know I like. But, sometimes the best wine is wine that has the ability to do two things: 1) Change your mind (Think you don’t like Chardonnay? Enter Burgundy…Think you hate Australian Shiraz? Enter 2006 Nashwauk), and 2) Offer you a taste experience you haven’t yet had.  My pick this year is a tribute to the latter. Mere months ago I tasted the 2007 Ambyth Estate Tempranillo- Sangiovese, the first time such a blend has graced my palate. What. a. treat. And produced biodynamically in Paso Robles, California to top it off! Without question, one of the standout wines of my year.  

$52.75

Mindy –
Thackery Pleiades XX, California – Sangiovese/Viognier/Mourvedre/Syrah/Pinot Noir
Iconic winemaker, Sean Thackrey has made 20 or more vintages of the non-vintage Pleiades, named for the star cluster.  Thackrey’s unconventional and unique style emphasizes wine making methods from ancient texts as he allows his grapes to sit and rest in the warmth as the first winemakers did.   He blends varietals such as Sangiovese, Viognier, Mourvedre, Syrah and Pinot Noir (and sometimes Barbera and Carignan) from his Bolinas backyard to create the most delicious and aromatic wines.  Each year he creates a wonderful and  different blend.  The Pleiades XX shows layers of huckleberry and strawberry intertwined with eucalyptus and spice laden.  It’s earthy, savory, complex and voluptuous.  Grab a bottle and drink it slowly.  Enjoy the way the wine evolves over a few hours.  Save a sip or two for breakfast.  What a true pleasure!    $35.00

Maggie-
Shinn Estate, Long Island, New York, Merlot
Oh…my…gawd…What a wonderful wine.  Located on the North Fork of Long Island (aka Lawng Guyland) as well as only an hour away from where i grew up, Shinn Estate produces one of the best Merlots out there, at least I think so.  But before we get into all that, let’s talk a little first…or I’ll talk and you guys will listen (what did you expect i’m a Long Island girl).

Long Island is shaped like a fish.  Queens and Brooklyn at the head, Farmingdale where i grew up almost in the center, Seinfeld just next door, Billy Joel and Teddy Roosevelt 20 minutes north, and then all those NYC types who spend their summers out east in the Hampton’s on the South Fork or the bottom tail fin.  Growing up I was only a 20 minute drive to the Ocean, a 45 minute drive to NYC, and an hour drive to Montauk.

Long Island is also packed with history.  Having a mom who is a living historian/re-enactor I was surrounded by it, history that is.  I grew up knowing an actual Rosie the Riveter and numerous Women Air =force Service Pilots.  Having one of the most trafficked and influential airports during WWII, pretty much in my backyard helped too.  Charles Lindbergh took off for his flight in the spirit of St. Louis at Mitchel Field.  Teddy Roosevelt’s summer house, and wildlife preserve is a quick and wonderful drive to the North Shore.  The gold coast is filled with old Mansions of the Rockefeller’s, and the Guggenheim’s, which is also where the Great Gatsby took place.

So now that you almost forgot about the guidos that have seemed to over shadow what a wonderful place Long Island is let’s talk about wine
Shinn Estate is located on the north tail fin of Long Island.  Glacially formed soil brings a rich but slightly rocky quality to the soil.  A quick hop to the Long island sound is great for the soil, as well as bagels and pizza.  The vines grow deep into the soil seeking out the nutrients they need.  The vineyard is farmed sustainably and naturally.  Gentle tannins, red plum fruit and a soft nose of vanilla, coffee and chocolate, oy vey.    $32.00

Virginia –
2009 Clautiere 2 Cocky Sisters, Paso Robles, California – Grenache/Syrah/Zinfandel/Counoise
Don’t have a Boo this winter? Winter girlfriend 2011-12 didn’t come through?
Broken promises, failed dreams, not a problem…  time to settle.  Like these two sisters, Terry and Claudine know how to have fun and take life with a grain of spice. Known for their zany parties full of costume, wigs, and astrological boastings, the duo has utilized leftover wine from their more expensive bottles and made this delicious medium-bodied blend. With a surprising spiciness, this blend has enough bite to make it a bit mean without breaking your bank. Sure, drink it with food, it pairs great with a pork chop but don’t feel bad about eating it with a Hot Pocket or better yet, all by itself, by yourself.  The notes of thick plums, dark cherries, and a whiff of black pepper are perfect to share with a friend or just in your mumu.

$16.00

Ellen –
NV Brochelle Stimulus, Paso Robles, California – Zinfandel
This is a full, fruity and fabulous zinfandel from Paso Robles- it’s silky and luscious!  In 1998, Brock and Michelle created Brochelle, a combination of their hard work, dedication and vision to create amazing wines through their impeccable attention to detail. Delightful…We enjoy wines on the $10 cart too!    $10.00

Katie -
2007 Twisted Oak ‘The Spaniard’, Calaveras County, California – Tempranillo/Garnacha/Graciano

I was first drawn to this wine because of my love for the movie “The Princess Bride,”which it is named after, but what really made this wine one of my favorites was the super intense layers of flavors I tasted in this Rioja style blend. Aged in new French oak, new American oak and two year old French oak, the Tempanillo and Garnacha pick up lovely notes of vanilla, sandlewood, anise and nutmeg. Then Graciano is blended, adding dark berry flavors and a lively fruitiness. Strong tannins and a long velvety finish are only part of what make the wine makers claim, “You’ll need six fingers to hold the glass.”
The notes of baking spices make me think of egg nog and a cozy fireplace, perfect for this time of year. This is also a fantastic food wine. Pair it with a holiday roast and everyone at the dinner table will exclaim, “INCONCIEVABLE!!!”

$56.00

Luke –
Brouwery Huyghe, Delirium Noel, Belgium – Strong Golden Ale
Several Marches ago, I rode alone from Amsterdam to Paris, through sleet, wind and Belgium, on a used, three-speed Dutch city bike that resembled an aging mule. The longest morning of my trip saw me through the Belgian countryside, past towns with names like Londerzeel, Buggenhout, and Dendermonde. Later that morning, I passed a house no larger than a shack, with a full-size passenger jet and a statue of Liberty in the crackling driveway, no other buildings in sight.

Fifteen kilometers from Ghent, where I had planned to stop for lunch, bright orange signs informed me (in Flemish) that the next few kilometers were under construction, and I needed to retreat ten kilometers for the closest detour. This seemed difficult, and it was already getting dark, so I broke into the construction site and walked my bike over the muddy rocks. (It was Easter Sunday, so the site was abandoned.)

Finally the road work ended, and I gratefully got back on my bike, hungry and thirsty and not even halfway to the day’s final destination. In what still felt like the middle of nowhere, I looked up and saw a huge brick wall painted brightly, dominated by a pink elephant: Brouwery Huyghe said the building, and the elephant said Delirium Tremens. I stepped inside — they were inexplicably open on the holiday — traded my stories for a beer, and then downed it like a gallon of water. Amused, they gave me another.

It’s not my favorite beer we stock (that would be New Belgium’s La Folie, which is both a brown ale *and* a sour ale, and is better even than it sounds) but it was tastier that day than anything in the world.   $13.75

Jenna –
Small’s Gin, Ransom Spirits, Sheridan, Oregon $34
Hi I’m Jenna and I am the snack lady at LUSH West Town, or as i like to be called, the snack tyrant. I come from a food background as a line cook for many years, so this wine/beer/ spirits thing is pretty new to me. But I know what I like and this girl likes her gin. There’s something about the juniper-scented spirit that reminds me of my favorite time of year….now!! You can pretty much find me drinking a gin gimlet at several watering holes around the city all year round. Small’s gin is basically the epitome of the type of spirit you’d expect to find here at Lush: made by a small, independent producer, small batch, natural ingredients, and yummy! The distillers at Ransom Spirits are obsessed with utilizing the methods used in the early 20th century directly before prohibition. And as an additional component to the traditional flavor profile, they add local Oregon raspberries during the distillation process to complement the juniper and cardamom that is so pronounced. Small’s is so pure and crisp that it is great to drink on its own on the rocks, or shaken with a little rose’s lime juice and served up in a fancy schmancy martini glass. Also, here is a recipe for a little something i like to call the gin zebra (created during my stint over at Green Zebra many moons ago). It combines my two loves, gin and bubbles. Spanks!    $34.00

Gin Zebra
1 oz gin (Small’s!)
1/2 oz lime juice
1/4 oz elderflower liquer
Shake and pour into a flute
top with a dry sparkling white

Mitch’s picks
You know him. You can’t miss him. Big n’ burly, bearded, ponytailed, and larger-than-life, the captain of this crazy Lush ship is the magical Mitch Einhorn, and this Sunday is devoted to wines that he chose himself. His palate is as big as his personality; expect lots of crazy California Rhone blends, but also weird, super intense Austrian powerhouses, and maybe some northwest loving throw in there, too. Get inside the brain of our fearless leader by sipping on some of his favorites this Sunday.
Sunday Afternoons with Lush is our way of sharing our love of wine and thoroughly enjoying the last moments of the weekend. We believe that tasting is the best way to learn about the endless flavor possibilities in the world of wine. Leave the text books at home; we are all about hands-on learning. Practice makes perfect, so the more tasting you do, the better you become at discerning the subtle nuances of aroma, flavor, and essential terroir of each wine. Each Sunday from 2 – 5 pm, Lush will have focused tastings guided by friendly wine geeks to help make you the practiced lush you esteem to be. These events are always complimentary. Feel free to bring your mother and anyone else who would appreciate exploring their Lush side.

Sundays with LUSH: Mitch’s Picks
Sunday, October 16th

Celebrating the big man the right way. The wine way.  These are his most current favorites. Yes, they are a bit indulgent. Yes, they are a bit expensive.  But, the wines are OPEN and free to taste today.  If you can’t make the tasting at the shops, at least you can peruse these notes for some delightful eye candy.  Enjoy!

[Buy ANY four bottles from this tasting array, and recieve a 10% discount from your entire purchase. ‘The Man’ thanks you!]

2009 Ambyth Priscus, Paso Robles, California – Grenache Blanc, Viognier, Rousseanne, Marsanne
AmByth (Welsh for ‘forever’) Estate is Paso Robles’s first and only winery to produce Demeter certified Biodynamic wines. The winery gained certification from the Demeter Association in 2006.  Ambyth utilizes the Biodynamic method of farming to enhance their observations of nature, and use these intimate insights as tools that allow our 20 acres of vineyards to express their true character through the grapes it produces.  They want these grapes to be as unique to AmByth Estate as your thumbprint is to you.  The estate consists of 20 acres of vineyards and 600 olive trees dedicated to Biodynamic farming principles since their initial planting.  There are cows. Chickens. And bees, too!

AmByth Estate believes in producing wines that are made with minimal intervention: letting the wine make itself.  Well, if it had hands.  Which is where the very talented winemaker comes in…but also the steep hillsides, head trained vines,  Priscus in Latin means ‘venerable’.  This white is aromatic to the extreme, with peach blossoms and apricot jam, tart green apple skin, leafy greens and ginger, as well as buttered toffee.  On the palate, the green apple crispness resonates with a creamy, textural mouth feel and minerality. This white wine is a rich wine, not for the faint of heart. Plump and rounded, but crispy and bright, too.  $58.00

2008 Umathum, Burgenland, Austria – Gelber und Roter Traminer
Weingut Umathum (pronounced OOM-a-TOOM) is dedicated to the unification of tradition and innovation. Though Umathum makes a small amount of white wine, it is the reds that they are best known for. The Austrian red wine varieties of Zweigelt, St. Laurent and Blaufränkisch make up about 85 percent of the 30 hectares under cultivation. On both banks of Lake Neusiedl a wide range of different soils are cultivated including slate, lime, clay and pebble.

Umathum is a Demeter certified biodynamic estate. “Lively soils and alert plants point us in the right direction and give us the necessary inspiration on how to interact with them” says Josef Umathum about his attitude to wine-growing. He continues: “Our wines are food for the soul…these are liquid folk-tales.”

Liquid folk-tales, indeed. The wines of Umathum are testaments to the unique soils and grapes that Austria has to offer. Some describe Umathum as a modern estate. Though Umathum does use more modern winemaking techniques, like the use of barrique-aging, the estate couldn’t be more traditional in its faithful expression of the land. This particular wine is a BLEND of the white AND red Traminer. Wha?! Yeah.  They did that.  The wine smells of rose petals, white tea, and yuzu jam with lemon zest.  On the palate, the texture screams red, but the acid and flavors whisper white.  Roses are a dominant flavor characteristic, with red currant and lemon, ripe pear and fresh green herbs, cilantro. Chalky minerality and jasmine and coriander.  Just wild. Check it out. In the glass. Again.  $30.00

2005 Ecluse ‘Ensemble’, Paso Robles, Califronia – Petit Verdot, Merlot, Cab Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon
Ecluse is the Frenchie term for ‘lock’. Not on the door, silly, but in the canal. For the boats.  Nestled into the high and dry ravines and rough n’ tumble country of West Paso Robles, Pam and Steve Lock grow grapes. Yup. They are farmers.  Grape farmers. Turned winemakers.  They figured that if other people using their grapes were getting amazing ‘scores’, than they sure as heck could do just as well or better. Thus, they made juice that they would like to drink. In their barn.

Ms. Rachel visited their vineyard for lunch. With hummingbirds and wild panther on the property. A barn for making wine.  And a house plopped down right in the midst of the vineyards.  The view from the dining room table is to the southeast, across the hills of the west side. Extremely rural. By invitation only.  Dig it.

So. Back to the wine.  Pam and Steve grow all sorts.  Primarly Zinfandel, for this is Paso.  But, also Rhone varietals and a smattering of Bordeaux varietals, too.  Their style is incredibly earthy, dusty, and mellow.  No ‘blockbuster’ adjectives here. Only well crafted wine that is in balance. Thus ‘ensemble’, a harmony of flavors working together, never one more than the other. This is a truly unique, handcrafted wine reminiscent of a beautiful Bordeaux. The nose draws you in to a deep palate of exquisite flavors ranging from dark fruit, baking spices, and cocoa with a deliciously velvet mouthfeel. The subtle harmony unfolds layer upon layer of flavor, the smooth tannin and long finish keep you coming back for more. Harmonious, indeed. $45.50

2005 Black Zeppelin, Paso Robles, California – Syrah, Alicante Bouchet, Cabernet
Dude.  Seriously.  This man, Swilly Idol = Stillman Brown, is crazy.  The best kind of crazy. The one you want as your friend. A party mad reveler. The last to bed.  A man with stories…and probably the scars to prove it.  Obsessed with Elvis. Weathered. And awesome.

Red Zeppelin winery is a small producer of awesome and outrageous wines, based in Paso Robles and Cayucos, California. The name, and label, come from a rip on the band, of course, but also the winery Bonny Doon and the wine ‘Cigare Volant’.  A mind train brainstorm crash of epic proportions! Witty and silly, but serious, too.  No stranger to all things eccentric and perhaps a bit on the wild side, winemaker Stillman Brown allows his wine to also embody distinctive personalities, concentrating on low yields and cool climate terroir, but allowing for a little boldness and panache. This wine is an ode to indulgence and a prayer for it to work in the bottle.  Toss ‘em all in, stir, and sip. Only nine barrels of this Black Zeppelin were made from a vineyard of clone 3 Petite Sirah in the Hames Valley in southwestern Monterey County, and was blended with a single barrel from the Brady Vineyard in Paso Robles.  The Hames Valley is normally one of the warmer sub-appellations of Monterey; however the 2009 vintage was cooler, enabling the fruit to keep more of its blackberry and plum flavors.  The Brady wine added structure and a different type of oak flavor; the finished wine shows dark fruit, pepper and spices, and a variety of oak and cedar flavors that contribute to the structure and long finish.  Stillman expects to win a bunch of awards for this wine.  After it’s all gone, of course. This eclectic blend is Red Zeppelin’s flagship wine with intense aromas of vibrant dark chocolate, toasted coconut, raspberry compote, olive, bacon fat, and tobacco with a juicy, fruity-yet-dry medium-to-full body and a sweet spice and cherry finish. Tasty, complex, and hedonistic.  $49.50

2005 Coeur D’Alene ‘Opulence’, Coeur D’Alene, Idaho – Syrah, Viognier
Grown in Washington. Crafted in Idaho.  Coeur d’Alene is a small, family-owned winery located in the beautiful inland northwest dedicated to the fine art of wine. Kimber Gates is the owner and GM of the winery, and all-in on this project.  The land. The grapes. The artist labels, painted by a friend.  The legendary vineyards of eastern Washington provide the ultimate setting to grow classic Rhone grapes. Syrah is making a name here, a daunting proving ground.  Here, the soil, climate and weather patterns converge to create an absolute haven for grapes filled with flavor. This small winery was founded to create the best quality Rhone style wines from the best vineyards within Washington.  While they source their fruit from Washington, the actual winery is located in the wonderful little community of Coeur d’Alene, Idaho.

The Opulence harkens back to Cote Rotie, in France.  With a dash of white wine in the red to bring brightness and balance, a punch of white fruit, cherry blossoms, and fresh herbs mingle with the roasted dates, black plum and raspberry, cured meats and crumbly black dirt on the nose.  The palate displays huckleberry, blueberry, cracked pepper and spice notes. Great fruit intensity and pronounced vanilla, smoky, woodsy flavors linger on a long finish.  Textured and tasty. $48.00

2005 PAX ‘Griffin’s Lair’, Sonoma Coast, Sonoma California – Syrah
Once upon a time (okay, so in the year 2000), a winemaker named Pax Mahle paired up with with Joe Donelan, a Connecticut-based investor, to produce some of the world’s finest single-vineyard Syrahs out in California. Over the years, they developed quite the cult status, and their tiny-production bottlings garnered lots of well-deserved press for being remarkable, age-worthy, and varietally correct expressions of the all the tiny microclimates around the Sonoma area. With more than two-thirds of the wines earning 90+ points from the people at Wine Spectator, etc., the wines’ renown spread far and wide.

Fast forward a few years to 2008, when Joe and Pax had a heartbreaking divorce, wine-style. The winery kept the name, but Pax departed his position as head winemaker. The wines (now known as Donelan Wines) have since lost a lot of their buzz, and nobody really knows what is happening with Pax Mahle. Good thing we Lushies have been carefully cellaring many vintages of their past wines!

Griffin’s Lair, beautifully named, harks from a hillside Sonoma Coast site that is wind-swept, and harsh. But, the wine is full of well poised character.  This wine expresses both intense, almost jet-black color in the glass, and also concentrated fruit and big, rigidly structured tannins. It exhibits beautiful flowery bacon and lead pencil notes intermixed with some meat juices, blackberry, and cassis. Freshly ground spices and smashed strawberry with balsalmic. The wine is full-bodied, rather opulent, fleshy, and mouthfilling with no hard edges. Yet there is a smooth, glycerin mouthfeel that smooths out those rough compounds, and with a nose full of blackberry, fig, acacia, brioche, white chocolate, and toast, as well as a spicy, opulent texture,;this guy is exactly what’s needed at this time of the year. Decant it ahead for an even better drinking experience. $128.00

LUSH lingo leaving you a little bamboozled? Let’s get straight to the facts. An honest to
goodness list of everything your neighborhood LUSH can provide just for you.

1. FREE booze! If the lights are blinking, you’re drinking. 12-10, 7 days a week. Anything
we have opened is fair game.
2. FREE Scheduled tastings. 2-5 each and every Sunday afternoon. Check out the website
or call your local shop to see what the weekly theme is. Not a wine fan? 25% of our
scheduled tastings are either beer or spirits. We provide the topic, the booze, and some
tasting notes, you provide your face.
3. Personalized tastings. Pick a topic, or don’t. Have it blind, or not. Have some snacks
to pair, or drink your food. Set a date with Ms. Carrie (carrie@lushwineandspirits.com) at Roscoe Village, or Ms. Alica (alicia@lushwineandspirits.com) at West Town & University Village, get
some friends together, and have a more tailored tasting event.
4. Guidance to help find that perfect product.
5. About that product…. Not only does LUSH have a bevy of scrumptious wine, we
also carry small production beer, spirits, chocolates and other tasty morsels, cooking
goodness (olive oil, divine seasoned sea salt , BLIS maple syrup, etc), tea, wine odds and
ends (decanters, wine keys, stain remover, and wine preserver) and select non-alcoholic
beverages.
6. What you can’t find elsewhere. At LUSH, we strive to provide our clients with small
production, artisanal, and boutique products. Think eclectic wines, eccentric spirits, and
rare brews; organics and biodynamics. If you can find it at a grocery store or any other
large liquor store, you won’t find it here. This isn’t snooty wine, it’s just “I’m rootin’
for the little/odd guy.” The LUSH staff hand selects and taste tests all of our products
(strenuous, emotionally taxing work, we know) to ensure deliciousness.
7. $10 carts! Seeing words like boutique and biodynamic (huh?) and getting a little
concerned? Don’t be. Rest assured, we have carts of white and red (with a few
select bubbles and pinks) at $10 or less. We have taken great strides to find the best
inexpensive wine on the market. Don’t be bashful, grab a few!
8. Grub. West Town location now, soon to be Roscoe Village. Ms Kelly is doin’ it up
right. Charcuterie, cheese, bar snacks, sandwiches fit to fill your belly, and seasonal
pasta plates that changes daily. Snag some booze from our retail side and make a meal
out of it.
9. Pairing. Whether you’re planning a dinner party or just need a bottle to go with tonight’s
spare ribs, let us help you find the perfect wine to pair with your food. Tell us about your
menu, we’ll tell you about our grape juice.
10. Patio series! Awesome food, even better wine, and a great outdoor space. Check out
the website for upcoming (seasonal) patio events at our University Village location and
make your reservation.
11. Special orders. Can’t find that rare, vintage Riesling, limited edition brew, or scarce
bourbon? Let us do the leg work. You make the request, we’ll (do our absolute best to)
make it happen.
12. Shipping. Want to send some Goose Island love to a friend in the Pacific Northwest?
Have an aunt who lives in the middle of nowhere? Need to send Christmas, birthday,
anniversary, or Hanukkah gifts to friends out of state? Let us ship for you. LUSH will
ensure that your booze-laden packages will get there safely, legally, and promptly.
13. Special events. Throw a party at your local LUSH for ANY occasion. Savor the large
and lovely space in West town, an intimate gathering in Roscoe Village, or a patio’s

delight in University Village. Let us provide scrumptious wine or beer (with tasting
notes, if you’d like) and whip up some delicious food. Whatever you can dream up.
Shoot Ms Cara, Special Events coordinator (cara@lushwineandspirits.com), an email to
set up the perfect, private affair.
14. Gift wrapping. For free, silly. LUSH staff members are always happy to wrap up any
bottles for you. A little tissue paper, ribbon and a tag; we’ll save you the extra step.
15. Delivery. To the best of our abilities, LUSH will make local deliveries. Please call in
advance to schedule.
16. Exclusives. Ask Ms Rachel (Rachel@lushwineandspirits.com), you’ll get the dish. Her
weekly email features a fabulous deal and/or a super rare selection, including wine,
spirits, and beer. This is by your request only, friend.
17. Club LUSH. Quarterly installments of extraordinary wines hand selected and packaged
just for you (or a lucky gift recipient!). Three different tiers to choose from, all with
different collections. Have it shipped, delivered, or pick it up at your local shop. If one
category doesn’t fit, bend our ear. We’ll do our best to create something that will.
18. Beer Club. Aka Club LUSH, BeerPointO. Keep your eyes, ears, and mouths open kids.
It’s coming soon!
19. Registries. Getting hitched or having a little one? Skip the blenders and onesies. Set up a
registry at your local shop and tell your friends. Tasty hooch will make you happier than
that waffle iron ever could.
20. School of LUSH. That’s right, school’s in session. Course material changes, check out
our website to see the class schedule. Anything with an ABV is fair game; wine (a grape,
region, or style), stickies, bourbon, sherry, scotch, sake, ANYTHING. LUSH professors
will write up some class notes, pick some delicious samplings from our shelves, and Ms
Kelly will knock out some snacks to pair. No diplomas, just delicious, delicious booze.

Come join us, neighbors. Bask in the glow of those blinking bulbs and let us LUSHes be the
boozy nerds in your life.

What a great seminar we had at the Avenues in Chicago’s Peninsula Hotel!  Hosted by Maverick Wine Company, Ted Lemon, founder of Littorai in Sonoma,  held a very informative and excellent discussion about Biodynamic viticulture and winemaking. During which we also were able to sample eight of his wines using organic, sustainable, and full-on biodynamic procedures.

(Ted Lemon at Littorai in Sonoma, via SFGate)

Now, many of us on the retail side of things pretty much get the gist of what Biodynamics is, but not many of us fully understand or are completely on board with the spiritual, new age-y aspects that go along with Bio-D.   If one checks out the Demeter USA site, there is much information about sustainability and zero waste, but not too much about crystals and bull horns.

(the initial preparation, image via 1winedude.com)

But after hearing Ted Lemon speak about his own experiences and explain the philosophies of Rudolf Steiner, I think I became enlightened.  A believer maybe.

We learned about the different preparations that are sprayed on the field, such as 500 & 501, why one may be sprayed to promote growth during a waxing moon and the other for maturity during a waning moon, the rhythm of nature and the peculiar vineyard flora and fauna phenomena which keeps everything moving, growing, and healthy. The basics. Lemon even broke down the history of Western agriculture for us and the rise of Alternative Agriculture as a response to the giant Industrial Farm Revolution.

Now, I try my hardest (in the warm months) to eat as local, organic (farmers market organic, not supermarket “organic”), and close to the farm as possible. This can be expensive and sometimes grueling, but rewarding because I understand that my body is not processing chemicals and getting better nutrients from these ‘enlivened’ foods.  The same concept is used in Biodynamic farming as well, only with an even deeper connection to the cycles of the cosmos and world.   There is a difference in flavor and feeling (yes, Steiner spoke of ‘feelings’ being a real, significant part of farming) in a fresh tomato cut from vines bought from a small, organic farmer in central Illinois during the summer than a hard, yellowish, hot-house tomato ripening on a truck from an industrial farm in Ecuador.  Why is there a difference? Because that organic tomato is getting real nutrients from the ground where magnesium and nitrogen and potassium and oxygen are generating naturally in the earth from other decomposing flora, earthworms pooping their body weight in vegetation, gophers mixing top soil down to the lower layers of sandstone, etc.  That tomato is full of life.  The other tomato trucked in from a chemical-sprayed field or greenhouse in January.. that tomato is dead.

(organic heirloom tomatoes vs mass production engineered dead earth tomatoes)

Rudolf Steiner and Lemon believe that if the food you eat is dead, then in turn, you will be dead. Chemicals in your body result in a lifeless body. “You are what you eat” is the old adage. But with Bio-D farming, where everything is living off itself, compost, nutrient-rich organic-material tea sprays, and little insects in harmony with the cycles of the earth, you get “enlivened food that will awaken you”.

Many Biodynamic farmers call this being in tune to the ‘Spirit’, or awakening their “organs of spiritual perception”.  It calls back to a time where native peoples were so in tune to the rhythm of the seasons that they worshiped it, went with the ebb and flow, and took no more from the land that was needed (and in turn, replaced what was taken).

Many of us, especially the city dwellers, look at this with skeptic eyes.  We’d be pretty stoked about this practice if it didn’t sound almost.. religious, or cultish, or hippy-dippy.

(however we are all stoked for this guy.)

But I realized something as Ted Lemon was talking about a phenomenon he noticed with clover. He mentioned that on some parcels he’d have thick coverings of clover, which are essential to pushing nitrogen back into the soil. After a few seasons, the clover disappeared completely from that area. Poof, completely gone.  It had moved down the vineyard to a few different rows, and began replenishing the land there.  The clover had done its job at the first site, and with the soil finally at acceptable levels, the clover was unneeded and moved on to where it could be useful.  To watch how nature can perform this kind of vineyard triage is mindblowing. This was crop rotation without any human intervention.

At this point I realized the skepticism I had was my own control issue, or rather, a human control issue.   Understanding the spiritual world of Bio-D is difficult- to end the skepticism we must give up the arrogant belief that we have control over the land; once we submit and let the earth take over, the “spirit” is obvious. Nature knows what it is doing, and Biodynamic agriculture is just sitting back and listening to Nature’s cues.  Yes, Bio-D nudges nature along encouragingly by manually bring compost and tea-sprays into the vineyard, but at the lowest minimal external input.

(its all about BALANCE, image via Wall Street Journal)
So cheers to Biodynamic Wine and all the love, care, and dedication these winemakers and vine growers have for putting the Earth’s very finest ‘enlivened’ product into your glass!
(Tasting notes to follow.)

Links:

Demeter (biodynamic certification organization)
Littorai Winery
Maverick Wine Company

What do you think?

Ms. Jane & SnackMasterKelly also came to this seminar, and I’m sure they have plenty to say on the subject as well. For tasting notes on the wines we sampled, including some that are available at LUSH, find them at DECANTchicago. Also, please follow @LUSHwine on twitter to keep up to date on news and new releases!

If you are interested in any of the Littorai wines, please call Ms Rachel at 312-666-6900 to check on availability!

Holla. Shout from the rooftops and tell all your friends; Lush in University Village has a rocking patio that is just itching to be used every single day of sunshine and warm(er) temps. And, what better way to utilize the short Chicago summer than to sip away the evening and EAT outside! The Lushies have been whipping up a full schedule of food and wine events, so please join us for a lovely evening, or jump in on them all! RSVP required and all reservations are NON-REFUNDABLE. Serious. Each event is open to 25 people. Groups are welcome and encouraged.  We expect to serve 4 courses, family style, and pour you the approximation of 4 glasses of wine. Yes, that translates to MORE than you could feasibly eat or drink. Please consider arranging transportation. The cost will fluctuate depending upon the event. More details to come. Call 312.738.1900 to reserve a seat. You may also email erin@lushwineandspirits.com. EAT, DRINK, and be MERRY with us!

Saturday, June 4th, 6-8:30pm: PATIO SERIES – PAELLA.
The anticipation has been building, and, once again, our first dinner event of the season has arrived! Kickin’ off the summer patio series of pre-fix dinner parties at LUSH. e are taking reservations RIGHT NOW for the Paella dinner. You don’t want to miss the Mario Batali in Spain inspired 30 quart paella pan, buckets full of wine and pitchers full of sangria! We will have traditional tapas and extreme, iced buckets of refreshing boozy beverages, as well. Really. Dig in. A full meal, many full glasses, and a knee slapping good time.  Bring friends. Lush style with the lushie family. Cost based on market price of seafood. Taxes & tip included. RSVP required and the seat is non-refundable, period. $45

Saturday, June 25th, 6-8:30pm: RIBS and Rose and Zinfandel.
Smoked. Grilled. Rubbed with love.  And delicious spices. The wines are pairing perfection. Taxes & tip included. RSVP required and the seat is non-refundable, period. $65.

Friday, July 8th, 6:30pm: Chix & Bubbles
Fried Chicken and bubbles. One of the finer pairings in life. Finger lickin’ good. The bestest picnic around. Taxes & tip included. RSVP required and the seat is non-refundable, period. $65.

Saturday, August 20th, 6:30pm:  Maryland Blue Crab Boil
Running of the crabs! This is the season of fresh crab. Boys only will be boiled. Tiny hammers and little forks. A napkin bib. And crispy wines. Taxes & tip included. RSVP required and the seat is non-refundable, period. $65.

Sunday, September 18th, 1-6pm: Oysters
A lovely little brunch of fresh oysters. East coast, West coast, and bi-coastal. Ranging from salty to creamy, fruity and funky. Taste the delicious morsels in a rocky little package.
$3 per oyster OR $32 per dozen [reserve your dozen. free wine samples with purchase. wines also available to purchase separately BTG]

Wednesday, May 25th, 2011
4-6pm

LUSH West Town
1412 W. Chicago Avenue
Chicago, IL 60642
312.666.6900

The original gypsy brewer, Brian Strumke, popped in to LUSH West Town for an impromptu tasting of his Stillwater Artisanal Ales.  Based in Baltimore, Maryland, this rockin’ beer dude makes beer all over the world.  He has paired up with 12% Imports, headed by Brian Ewing, to form a most dynamic duo.  Alas, no brewery.  But, no problem.  Following suit to Mikkeller ‘in’ Denmark, Stillwater beer is crafted on borrowed time with borrowed space in breweries far flung.  It is about good beer. And good relationships. And beer.

We tasted American. English. And Belgian style brewing.  Beautiful (and creepy) labels catch the eye. The rest happens in the bottle, in the glass, and with friends.  It is all about collaboration. So, join LUSH and Mister Strumke for an epic evening of beer…swing by to check it out. More special, rare, and delicious gypsy ales jumping onto the shelves soon.

jip-sē brü-ər
modus operandi:
‘A sincere artist is not one who makes a faithful attempt to put on to canvas what is in front of him, but one who tries to create something which is, in itself, a living thing.’ -Sir William Dobell

‘The goal of Stillwater Artisanal is just that, living art. Although packaged within a medium often overlooked for its artistic merits, our desire is to offer something new and intriguing. We present more than just a fine crafted beverage, rather an occasion that evokes an emotion and inspires contemplation. For art is not a sum of actions but rather an approach to life. We draw our inspiration from the world around us, whether that be a season, location, or even humanity itself. Our intent is to encapsulate this muse exhibiting an artistic rendition to the best of our abilities.’  -  http://stillwaterales.blogspot.com/p/stillwater-portfolio.html.

Chef John des Rosiers, INOVASI

LUSH Staff Dinner

Wednedsay, January 12th, 2011

Chef was gracious enough to personally cook a 20 course tasting menu, served family style, as well as allow us the very amazing opportunity to share our cellar.  With 20 wine nerds and a few Twisted friends, we were absolutely a force to be reckoned with. Although, I think our chaos was mainly contained and all in good fun.  The menu is listed below. Any mistakes are on me, and Chef, my apologies should I misrepresent any courses. I was writing furiously as you so diligently and eloquently punctuated each dish presentation.  Chef also accommodated a gluten free request. What a  marathon.

The wine list is also below. We had two corked bottles, sigh, but everything showed beautifully. Most paired extremely well with dinner. Brilliant evening. And in good company.  A great thanks to Mr. Mitch Einhorn, as well, for the extravagant treat. Talk about staff appreciation! Thank you.

We hopped the Metra. Sorry daily commuters…but, c’mon, it was probably really FUN, too.  All of us, on the train. We zipped through 3 bottles of Champagne, one of which was in magnum, as well as a sparkling French cider and at least two whites.  Only one cork bounced off the train wall, as Colyn promised to catch it and then ducked.  Not enough practice, I suppose.

A short dash through the snow, past Wisma (looks amazing!) into Inovasi.  The regulars were a tad bit scared of the stampede as we all rushed inside excitedly chattering.

FOOD

To begin:

Charcuterie [Speck, Lomo, and Coppa from Becker Lane, Virginia; pickled cauliflower, mustard 'custard', brioche]

Assortment of Chicken Wings [fried, BBQ, with sauce of yuzu skin and soy glaze]

Flatbread [St. Benedictine cheese, black truffle, artichoke, polenta, emental cheese]

Tacos [corn tortilla, grits, carmelized onion, foie gras, chocolate and spice sauce, pecorino cheese]

Next:

Warm Beet Salad [shaved, raw brussel sprouts, soy, ginger, macademia nuts, Sicilian blue cheese]

Shrimp/Mussels, Squid/Calamari [coconut, soy, mirin, ginger]

Snails in Prichard’s Bourbon [duck reduction, basil, garlic, marsacpone and pane grille]

Main: (complicated, layered ingredients and a loud party made it difficult to record details…)

Haddock Casserole [carolina gold rice, fresh haddock]

Raw Chinese Cabbage [raw cabbage, sake, pecans, pesto]

Beef Sirloin [red quinoa, celery, creme fraiche, sage, brown butter, burned bacon (yes, burned)]

Pork Shoulder [chestnuts, macademia in butter, sea island red pea]

Chicken Leg Confit [goat, chorizo, house thousand island, cognac, cornichon, capers]

Bison [polenta, golden raisin, walnut, cinnamon schnapps]

Cheese & Dessert: (about this time, my writing becomes illegible…)

Tripel Cream Brie skewer [on toothpicks, tempura, egg, cream, sourghum, pistachio crumble]

Bread Pudding [amaretto pudding, vanilla, brioche, custard, tuscany]

Dark Chocolate [hazelnuts, espresso, amaretto, cherry]

Gelato [cranberry, cherry, chocolate]

Majuri Chocolate [I give up...this is totally not right...all well, it was delightful!]

—

WINE

BUBBLES

NV Michel Arnould Brut, Verzeney, Champagne, France

2002 Launois Pere et Fils Grand Cru Special Club Blanc de Blancs, Mesnil, Champagne, France

WHITE

2008 Ermacora, Collio, Italy – Pinot Grigio

2006 Muros De Melgaco, Vinho Verde, Portugual – Alvarinho

2007 Domaine Huet ‘Le Mont’ Sec, Vourvray, France – Chenin Blanc

2004 Fichet Puligny-Montrachet, Cotes de Beaune, Burgundy, France – Chardonnay

2003 Parent Corton Grand Cru, Cotes de Beaune, Burgundy, France – Chardonnay
1996 Rolly Gassman, Alsace, France – Tokay-Pinot Gris

2000 Diel ‘Dorsheimer Pittermannchen’ Spatlese, Nahe, Germany – Riesling

Scholium Project White, California

RED

2006 Rolly Gassman, Alsace, France – Pinot Noir

2006 Gros Tollot ‘Carretals’, Minervois, France – Carignan

1997 Chateau Beaucastle Chateaneuf du Pape, Rhone Valley, France – Grenache, Syrah, Mourvedre

2007 Umathum, Burgenland, Austria – Pinot Noir

2006 Moric ‘Neckenmarkter’, Austria – Blaufrankisch

2008 Lo Triolet, Vallee D’Aoste, Italy – Gamay
2002 Fattoria Le Terrazze ‘Planet Waves’, Marche, Italy – Merlot, Montepulciano

1997 Perzalo ‘Vulcano’, Campania, Italy – Aglianco

2000 Fra Fulco, Priorat, Spain – Carignan

2003 Esporao Private Selection Rouge, Alentejo, Portugal – Garrafiera

2000 John Alban Vineyards ‘Estate’, Edna Valley, California – Grenache

2006 Tablas Creek ‘Panopolie’, Paso Robles, California – Grenache, Syrah, Mourvedre, Counoise

2005 Couer d’Alene ‘Opulence’, Couer d’Alene, Idaho – Syrah

2004 Peay ‘La Bruma’, Sonoma Coast, California – Syrah
2005 Demuth Kemos ‘Bei’, Napa, California – Cabernet Sauvignon

BEER, CIDER and SHERRY

2010 Eric Bordelet ‘Granit’, France – Apple Cider

30 year Tradicion Palo Cortado, Jerez, Spain – Palomino Fino

—

And, after all that, we skeedaddled back to the last train.  And proceeded to do train burpees and cartwheels and pull ups. A train dance party also ensued…while we sipped on a flask of amaro.

Some of us went home. And some of us went on over to the Twisted Spoke for Pappy Van Winkle bourbon Manhattans. And another dance party.  Good times. Wild times. Check lushwine.smugmug.com for detailed pictures documenting our suburban dining and drinking adventure. Our apologies to clients the next morning…

Gotta love kickin’ it with the Lushes. Another good party. Another good year a’comin.

LUSH University Village, 1257 S. Halsted Street

Friday, January 14th, 2011

7-9pm

Please join us for a wild & indulgent celebration at LUSH University Village, 1257 S. Halsted.  5 years, damn straight. Slinging wine, educating, and cultivating a love of the beverage lifestyle.  My how the time flew by.  Look how far we’ve come…and how many bottles we drank.  Thank you for the support and good times! This party is for our amazing clients and friends.

We are itching for a party, and would love to kick it with you.  We are inviting our wino friends to provide a delicious collection of wine, as well as a couple beer geeks to get the beer tapped. Snack Master Kelly is crafting a tasty, snacky party menu. We’ll be breaking out the fire pits on the patio, to keep us warm while we saber a few bottles. RSVP required, rachel@lushwineandspirits.com.

[Please note that Ms. Rachel will bounce if necessary. This is NOT a party for all of Chicago. This was a party with an INVITATION to a list of clients. Do not just show up and expect free food and drink.  Do not bring 8 friends for a free party. We are not a bar.  If you break something, you best expect the wrath and a bill. I am watching you. Help keep it FUN!]

You HAVE to make this tasting. The most epic of all!

All day, every day, the Lushes have been searching and exploring…challenging our palates to expand as we try new grapes, regions, producers, and styles. We have discovered what we adore, what we LOVE and what do not care for. And, we discovered that our tastes have evolved, twisted, turned, and ended up in new places, the same places, and places we never imagined we would go. As a staff, we have a very eclectic, bizarre, and sometimes frightening taste in all things fermented.

Set to task, dedicated to choosing our very most favoritest wines, we set a very strict set of criteria…we want outrageous quality for the cash, of course, but we also require craft winemaking, juice that speaks of where it comes from and that inexplicable, intangible, expression of something extraordinary.Our staff picks of the year are titillating, intellectual stimulating, and definitely remarkable…unforgettable, even. So, we are memorializing our favorites of the year in this year end rewind.STAFF PICKS! Vol. 2 : Veterans!

Erin:
NV Weingut Wimmer Czerny Blanc de Noirs, Austria, Pinot Noir
As in life and love, we winos go through phases of infatuation and attraction. Some regions bore us after an extended visit [hello, Paso Robles] and some varietals remain too stoic, too unlikely to play hard and merry for my taste– Nebbiolo has never been game for the sort of romp through the vineyard that I enjoy, for example.

And then sometimes one needs a little nudge in the right direction. Mine came with an autumn dinner at newly-opened Henri, a formal French salon masquerading as a chic restaurant on Michigan Avenue. The food was a delight, and very classic French, with sole meuniere and rabbit rillettes and all that. However, it was the company, namely winemaker Hans Czerny and his wines, that captivated me all evening. President of Austria’s Demeter Group, the organization that assigns biodynamic status to wineries, among other agricultural producers, Hans could very well be stuffy and dogmatic. However, what I found in him was a true passion for his region, his family, and the process of making great wines that reflect the character of their terroir and, subsequently, their true selves. He’s clearly most proud of his single-vineyard Gruner Veltliners, the national grape that Austrians hold like a banner above other white varietals, but I was wholly taken all evening with his Champagne-method blanc de noirs. A subtle, complex wine that shows lots of red berries on the nose, and whose depth of minerality reflects the deep, sandy soils wherein the vines are grown, I fell in love instantly.

Now, Champagne is one of my Very Favorite Things, in all its iterations. But I am most susceptible to getting little palpitations from those Dark Side cousins, the sparkling wines made from only red grapes. From their deeper gold color to their mysterious, earthy, floral, shifting aromas and flavors, I love them unabashedly. And, while it’s high tribute to a sparkling wine to say that one “wouldn’t even know it wasn’t from Champagne,” I wouldn’t dream of insulting Hans by saying that this wine is anything but distinctly Austrian. So sip it, dear lush, and dream of wildflowers growing among the vines, and the Czerny family’s Mangalitsa pigs roaming the property.  One last thought: if winemakers are the new rockstars, Hans Czerny is a stalwart folk singer. From his farmhouse bowl haircut to his big, farmer’s hands with dirt under the fingernails still, everything about him reflects an earnest sincerity that translates in his enthusiastic speech and broken English; more important, one tastes it in his wines.

Carrie:
2005 Domaine Huet Petillant, Vouvray, France- Chenin Blanc

To be honest, I don’t remember exactly why I loved this wine so much. I just remember loving it. And for that reason alone I picked it. To try it again. To fall in love again. I hope you do to. So yes, it is just wine. But it is so much more than that. It is not taking the easy way out. It is years of painstaking trial and errors attempting to produce wine with both respect to our earth and to the wine itself. Domaine Huet is one of Vouvray’s leading producers, has been for decades. With the belief that the use of chemical weed killers, insecticides and pesticides completely destroys the balance of the soil and the environment, wine maker Noel Pinguet strictly adheres to biodynamic viticulture, arguing that these techniques allow terroir to come through more expressively in the finished wines. (These techniques mean seriously hard labor.) The result? Right of the bat, the nose burst with notes of the Loire’s chalky, mineral and volcanic soils. It tastes of flowers and again minerals with such an elegant bubbles and expressive finish. Oh, I’m hooked.

Christy:
2007 Odysseus PX, Priorat, Spain- Pedro Ximinez
PX is generally associated with sherry, so I know you are looking at this table wine thinking it must be sweet.  Well guess again.  This wine does have some fruit but is dry.  It saw its fermentation split between stainless steel and oak.  So it has some nice body but is not oaky.  I love this wine with fish!  It is also a great way to start a meal.  Don’t worry this white can stand up to winter but is great all year long.  yum!!

Kelly:
2006 Marion Ebner Melusine Lyra Austria-Gruner Veltliner
I mean, really, this is gruner?  Heck yeah!
Let’s being with the story of the winemaker Marion Ebner.  She grew up in Vienna and knew early on that she was interested in winemaking.  She enrolled in school just for that – which I should mention is not that common.  Most winemakers in Austria are born in in to the wine business…and most are guys.  When she was 16, she landed an internship with a great winery in Austria and worked under winemaker Fritz Wieninger (whose wines are also delicious, may I add). She went on to work in a wine shop (awesome) and the the marketing side of wine while gathering some resources.  She made a deal to cultivate some grapes in the Kamptal region and began producing the first small amount of the wonderful Melusine.  The Melusine is not like other Gruner Veltliners – it’s a lot fuller bodied and has so much complexity, you’ll probably be thinking about it still 45 minutes after you taste it.  The press quickly caught on to this small production wine, and with each vintage she gained more and more respect.

The ‘06 which is just utterly fantastic.  As I mentioned before, it’s a fuller bodied gruner that sees some oak (French).  I could just smell this wine all day long.  If Melusine was made in to a perfume, that would be my scent. The nose is full of pineapple, citrus and white stone fruit (sweet apples anyone?).  The palate is lush and complex with fresh fruit and a creaminess that is balanced by a beautiful acidity.

Only 222 bottles were brought in to the US and if I had the funds, I’d be buying a lot of this.  However, lucky for you, we still have a little left!

Rachael T:
2009 Zepaltas Rose, Sonoma, California-
Love it any time all the time. This dark and lovely rose of pinot noir smells like strawberries and earth and happiness. I’ve enjoyed it in many seasons with many dishes. I’ve had it at Easter with a dinner of glazed ham; I’ve served it up in the summer alongside a homemade mushroom and asiago cheese-topped pizza. I’ve also just enjoyed it on its own many times. Dry, but with plenty of fruit and a satisfying earthiness–Zepaltas exemplifies why I love rose in general: pretty, versatile, delicious, easy to pair, easy to drink. Yes, yes, yes.

Jane:
2006 Domaine Berthet-Bondet ‘Rubis’, Jura, France, Trousseau/Poulsard/Pinot Noir-
Jane says: In 1985 (the year of my birth, coincidentally),  Chantal and Jean Berthet-Bondet took over a domain that had not been producing wine for 50 years and brought it back to life. The domain spreads on 10 hectares, 5 in Chateau-Chalon and 5 in Cotes-de-Jura appellation. Chateau-Chalon possesses the noblest terroir in the Jura region. A composition of limestone and red and gray marne, which consists mostly of calcium-rich clay and has fertilizing properties, confers both power and great finesse to these wines. The winemaker practices low yields and “lutte raisonée” in the vineyards; that is, minimal use of insecticide and anti-fungal treatments, and a total abstention from defoliants; grass grows freely between the vine rows here. This red, both elegant and muscular, is made with 45% Trousseau, 45% Poulsard and 10% Pinot Noir. Odd grapes, the first two: not seen much outside of Jura (except for Trousseau, when called Bastardo, is used in Port production). This wine is characterized by its lightness and the complex bouquet of red fruits and earthy character — almost having a savory quality to it. It’s everything you could want in a wine: complex, fascinating, food-friendly, drinkable, and affordable. Cheers! $26.75)

Rachel D:
2007 Pingus PSI, Ribera del Duero, Spain- Pingus
I heart Pingus. Amazing juice. Crazy, prohibitively expensive. But, the little PSI is a freaking steal. Adore the packaging. And the wine is out and out amazing. Deep, rich, layered and complex, but also just damn pleasing to sip. My most favorite wines taste like dirt. For serious. Dirt. The land they are entwined with. Intricately intimate with. Slurping the minerals and soil specifics through the vines and into the grapes.  This wine speaks of place. Of the grape. Earthiness and minerals, tar and leather, with a good dose of black plum, black cherry and crushed rose petals. Old, twisted wood and dusty leaves caught beneath. A wisp of violet and a the green of a freshly broken twig. Blackberry liqueur, make that wild blackberry.   And, lest you get all wrapped up with the earth and fruit, and secondary nuances of exotic spice, the super bright acidity and velvety tannins snap smartly on the finish.

This offers really tangible taste of place and dirt, but also, delectable, vibrant fruit, intense and appetizing with a clear, driven directionality and intriguing personality. Enough with the dramatic overtures and the waxing poetic, eh. A bit of history, you ask. Pingus is a hugely successful winery in Ribera del Duero, run by a young, Danish born renowned winemaker, Peter Sisseck.  Part of an elite club of top Spanish wine producers, the winery has produced astonishing results (and prices) in a very short period of time. Yields are incredibly low, the wines are extremely concentrated, allocation is miniscule. Sisseck is said to be a genius in the vineyard, where pruning has become an art form. Rich plum in color, with a fuchsia rim, this is immediately attractive. And delicious. Yum. Alright, hush, put it in your mouth.

Colleen:
Lindeman’s Cuvee Rene Grand Cru, Vlezenbeek, Belgium-- Gueze Lambic Beer
I know you’ve been naughty this year- my friend Rene is here to slap you around a bit. Wild yeasts tart sour barnyard funk malty sour apple cider. Day-um! The spontaneous fermentation of this lambic style beer is created by exposure to the wild yeasts and bacteria present in the air. Drink now! Don’t hesitate! Invigorates a bored palate! Brings a twinkle to the eye! Makes hair shinier! Cures the common cold!